Italy: Lecce

You can go anywhere if you’re not in a hurry.

I’m definitely not in a hurry here in Lecce in Apulia. This Firenze of the South with its fabulous 17th century baroque buildings deserves slow time, lots of slow time.

Time to stroll the narrow cobbled streets admiring the cream sandstone churches and palazzos, time to look inside shops selling gorgeous clothes, leather goods, art works and brightly coloured ceramics and time to pull up a chair at an outdoor cafe and savour a strong latte macchiato or an Apulia wine (or both) and watch the passing parade.

Yes, Lecce is particularly pleasant to visit.

In this ‘city of 100 churches’, the Duomo is front and centre with its bell tower and Bishop’s Residence. Built in 1144, the Duomo has had bits and pieces added to it over the years. It’s magnificence has to be seen to be appreciated – both day and night.

Best of the best – Basilica di Santa Croce – beautifully baroque. The intricate detail is surprising.

There are 3 grand gates that lead into Centro Storico. The gate below is the oldest, rebuilt in 1703 after the original collapsed in 17th century.

Porta Rudiae

Lecce’s history goes back 2000 years. The Romans left their mark with this 2nd century amphitheatre capable of seating 14,000. It was only discovered in 1901. There’s also a smaller theatre nearby.

Like a lot of ancient towns, when their time expires, newcomers move in, often centuries later, and build atop. Italy is described as a ‘slagheap of history’ and there’s certainly a wealth of it lying under Lecce.

Lecce does many things well, but it’s their fresh, simple approach to delivering delicious food that lingers in the memory.

Coffee in the palazzo
And this is breakfast!!! Fig and walnut cake with latte
Beautiful display of sweet treats
Aperitivo in the company of 17th century grandeur
Calm before La Passeggiata
Excellent limoncello at this bar
Seriously lovely spot for dinner and wine
And a seriously lovely spot for leather handbags – Profumo di Pelle

Met an author – Lecce local Simone Mere – who was highly entertaining as he talked up his self published book of short stories, each focussing on a colourful Lecce character.

Was a good read

Lecce is a good base for day trips by train. We went to Gallipoli and Otranto. The town of Gallipoli (not to be confused with Turkiye’s) is blessed with history, beaches and a town centre that’s located on an island.

Fort
Town beach
Rail to Gallipoli

Otranto, on the Adriatic Sea is a popular summer tourist destination. The vivid blue colour of the sea is a drawcard as are the beaches, cafes and laidback lifestyle. It would make an ideal place to spend a few days. My one day visit didn’t do Otranto justice.

Lonely Planet’s drone shot of Otranto
Promenade along waterfront is dotted with great cafes. 15th century castle dominates. Was good, even in the rain.
Laneways full of little shops – some touristy

We spent 6 days absorbed in Lecce, very much enjoying our stay at Armonia B&B.

Love the ceiling
That’s our room – second floor corner with a sunblest balcony – perfect for morning coffee looking out over Lecce life and its castle
Saying goodbye to Lecce at Bona Siana – a casual restaurant with impeccable service, wine and food.

Moving onto Ostuni today very reluctantly. Had such a good time in Lecce.

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