Italy: Napoli

Napoli was fairly humming on two fronts when we arrived. First, it’s Easter in this strong Catholic city and second, the home team had won their football game against rival Lecce securing a good chance of winning the Serie A.

The streets were awash with all things Team Napoli –  banners hung from above, team paraphernalia was everywhere.

San Biagio in Centro Storico was where we stayed, at No 25 to be exact, and we loved every single minute of our 6 days here.

Centro Storico with its hustle and bustle, endless cafes, bars, souvenir sellers, artisans and family run delis selling all sorts of cheese, meats and olives was fabulous and to top it off, it was in walking distance to transport like train, bus and ferry.

Napoli is a diamond in the rough. Gritty it most definitely is, but there’s a pulsing, energetic, powerful pull that makes you want to stay longer. This city is confidently grounded in a down to earth, totally unpretentious attitude that I thoroughly enjoyed.

Order an expresso and pastry at a small cafe, stand at the counter shoulder to shoulder with locals and witness the frenetic energy at which coffee is made, pastries are served, orders yelled out alongside hearty buongiornos and you quickly ‘get’ the unaffected Neopolitan style.

Then, order pizza and vino rosso. Paper placemats are slapped down as are thick drinking glasses. Rich red wine slops over the edges leaving splotches on the table. Pizza hot from the wood fired oven, oozing with melted cheese, heavy with the smell of salami, too large for the plate is dumped with a flourish narrowly missing the wine jug. Napoli, no airs and graces – so easy to embrace.

In contrast, there’s a whole ‘nother culture nearby. Gesu Nuova Chiesa with its stunning interior and its brutalist exterior demands a good hour or more. There’s a lot to take in.

Napoli’s world renowned Archaeology Museum with rare pieces from Pompeii and Heracleum as well as Renaissance and Egyptian times was everything I thought it would be. We spent the best part of a day here, absorbing the legacies of the ancient world, some previously held in brilliant family collections like the Farnese.

Caserta Palace is often referred to as the Versailles of Naples. King Charles III commissioned the palace in 1751 to rival Louis XIV’s Versailles Palace and it is beautiful. With 1200 rooms and 34 staircases, Caserta is definitely grand.

Taking the train to Herculaneum was another day well spent. Smaller and wealthier than Pompeii, Herculaneum lay on the other side of erupting Vesuvius in 79 AD. Herculaneum copped the torrent of mud cascading down the slope, rather than destructive rocks that rained down on Pompeii. Hence, Herculaeum is more intact.

Visit both Pompeii and Heracelum if you can since they are very different. Don’t worry if you don’t see both on the one trip – we all return to Italy, so save one for your next trip.

The very lovely Procida Island lies an hour ferry ride from Napoli Port. We spent the day here walking and lunching.

Getting off track seems to be the norm in Napoli. We found great bars, cafes and restaurants, but honestly couldn’t tell you where they are.

Ciao Napoli – you were superb.

Flix bussing our way to Lecce Puglia today.