Tunisia: Kairouan and Sfax

Travelling by louage for two hours from Tunis to Kairouan, fourth holiest Islamic city after Mecca, Medina and Jerusalem suited us just fine.

These minibuses are the most common transport for locals and tourists alike. Eight people fit in comfortably and when the louage is full, it departs. Simple travelling. It’s also inexpensive and direct, unlike buses that have multiple stops.

Walking from our Tunis hotel in search of the louage station, I asked a man for directions at a tricky street. ‘I drive you,’ he said.

The 15 minute drive (clearly we had the wrong louage station in our sights when we set out earlier) was fabulous as he and his wife talked all things good about Tunisia and their 7 year old son declared his love for Australian sharks!

This kind man guided us into the louage station, told the ticket seller to look after ‘les Australiens’, gave us his phone number in case we needed help in his country and waved us a friendly goodbye. The connections we make…

The Grand Mosque is the magnet attracting Muslims and non Muslims to Kairouan. It is truly a sight to see.

The original mosque built in AD 670 was destroyed. What we see today was built on the same site in the 9th century. 414 pillars support the arches, rich carpets line the floor while materials for the roof came from Carthage. Non Muslims cannot enter, but doors are open for glimpses and photos are allowed.

Kairouan carpets are renowned and if you’re going to buy a Tunisian carpet, probably best to buy it here. I didn’t buy one, but certainly admired many.

Kairouan’s Medina is much quieter than Tunis’s, mainly because much of it is residential. However, there’s still a fair swag of stalls selling jewellery, clothing, perfumes and Turkish plates.

We stayed for 3 nights at Hotel Continental. It was a perfectly fine 3 star hotel with exceptional staff, a spacious room with a good size balcony, superb buffet breakfast, close to cafes and an easy walk to the Medina.

Our next stop was Sfax, a 2 hr louage drive from Kairouan. Second largest city in Tunisia, an economic hub, and tourist free. We thoroughly enjoyed our time here.

Sfax Archaeology Museum was closed for renovations during our visit, but staff still showed us some fabulous mosaic pieces.

It’s anyone’s guess when it will reopen since funding is insecure. A sluggish economy – covid and before that, a revolution and terrorist attacks mean the country is still playing catch up.

Inside the museum, a young French curator/ conservator from Patrimoine (Heritage) Dept struck up a conversation with us about heritage sites and funding – the constant battle for it and the inequity of its allocation. She was in Sfax instructing students from Libya. Giving back she is, since 10 years ago, she was the recipient of a scholarship from the Ancient History Dept Macquarie University Sydney.

Her work site now is Hegra Saudi Arabia (worth checking out online) and she took great delight in showing us the work she does there and inviting us to visit. The people you meet …

Ramadan began while we were in Sfax which means no eating and drinking between sun up and sun down for the next month. Locals asked if this was our first Ramadan and when I said it would be difficile, they reassured me that it would not be, that it would be good for body and mind. We will see.

Our hotel, Borj Dhiafa was lovely and 3 nights here, Ramadan and all, sped by.

Next stop- Djerba Island