Kosovo

Earlier this year when we were pulling together all manner of countries for this trip, we made sure Kosovo was on the list, and after 10 days here, we know we made the right decision.

We spent time in Prizren, Gjakova, Peja and Prishtina and I can honestly say that Kosovo’s compelling history, interesting sites, few tourists and easy entry from Tirana Albania were the right combination for us.

Kosovo’s war with Serbia in 1998 is well documented with most of us familiar with Milosevic’s resolute refusal to let Kosovo leave the firm. Despite ethnic cleansing and other atrocities, Kosovo inched its way to independence in 2008 enabled by NATO and US.

Today, Kosovo is still not recognised by some countries, still reliant on KFOR (the NATO led peace keeping force) and still unsettled along the Serbian border.

Yes, the country has its issues and I am clearly unaware of them all, but in terms of a travel destination, Kosovo does a good job of sharpening empathy and I am indeed promoting that.

Without further adieu, I give you my Kosovan highlights.

We relied on the efficient bus system to get around. The ease of waiting for a bus (never too long – 30 mins) and paying on board (never too much – 3E) cannot be understated. Definitely a highlight.

Our first stop was Prizren. We stayed in the very friendly and centrally located L’Hotel.

Prizren is authentic Ottoman, ruled as it was by the Turks for 500 years until 1912. We thoroughly enjoyed walking around, taking in the sights, savouring strong coffee, relishing the cuisine and engaging in talk that furthered our understanding of the world’s second youngest country after South Sudan.

One balmy night we sat at an outdoor bar and struck up a conversation with a couple of Kosovans at the next table. They told us that most people we could see were either locals or Kosovans who had left after the war and were returning for holidays to catch up with family.

In an act of extreme generosity, these young men, without our knowledge, paid for our drinks. When we expressed surprise, they politely explained, ‘Welcome to our country.’ Goodwill like this will be paid forward for sure.

Gjakova, our next stop was an hour by bus from Prizren and an easy town to like. We spent a lot of time walking, taking in the local day to day goings on, calling in to local cafes (there are many) for a cold orange juice or Peja beer to stave off the heat.

We headed onto Peja, an hour north from Gjakova in a little Mercedes Sprint which ducked and weaved along agricultural roads, dropping off and picking up passengers indiscriminately. Gotta love the local flavour.

Peja is the gateway to the beautiful Rugova Canyon, but we did the bare minimum of hiking thanks to the high temps. We walked the short distance to Patriakana e Pejes, a Serbian Orthodox Monastery set in the greenest, serenest setting. Nuns run the monastery and talk easily with visitors. The interior walls are covered in richly decorated frescoes, mind blowing frescoes actually. Passports are needed for entry, a reminder of the still tense relationship between Serbia and Kosovo.

One and a half hours by bus from Peja is Kosovo’s capital Prishtina, our last stop in this easy to travel country.

NEWBORN built in 2008 is the monument that celebrates Kosovo’s independence from Serbia. Colours and designs change each year and always reflect a hard hitting political/social message. See this site for past years’ designs karrota.wtf

Front and centre in Prishtina is the American and NATO presence. A large and imposing US Embassy and an enormous NATO base are both in town. Soldiers too are visible. Kosovans proudly point these out to the newly minted tourist.

The Kosovan debt of gratitude to US sees both countries’ flags flown next to each other, streets named after Bill Clinton, Madeleine Albright and Robert Dole, their statues front and centre and in the uniquely designed library below, there is an American corner.

A couple of other things. Kosovo currency is the euro. After independence, they did not want to use Serbian dinars, so approached EU to use euro.

It’s nigh impossible to visit this country and not take away some of its politics. Many have analysed whether Kosovo will join with Albania and form a Greater Albania, given the majority of Kosovans identify as Albanians.

Gaining traction is the view that neighbouring Serbia will feel threatened by the size and strength of a Greater Albania. But, Serbia may well demand their piece of the conjoined pie, given pockets of Serbians reside in north Kosovo. Complicated yet compelling.

If planning a visit to Kosovo, consider entry and exit points. Exiting from Kosovo to Serbia is only possible if you have entered Kosovo from Serbia. If entering Kosovo from Albania, Montenegro or Macedonia then exiting into Serbia is not permitted.

And my final point, Kosovo is very affordable when it comes to accommodation, food, drinks and transport. Yes, we had it very easy in Kosovo. Check out coffee prices below.

We leave Kosovo today on the red bus below, heading south to Skopje North Macedonia, a city we visited in 2018 and liked. This visit though we’re just staying one night before moving into Bulgaria.