Poland: Krakow

We’re going to bounce around Poland for a month or so sampling a few places and hopefully get an insight into this Central European country that rates high in the history, castles and vodka stakes.

Krakow, Poland’s former royal capital is our first stop and I have to say, grand as the sights are, it’s a tourist mecca. Two things: it seems that Krakow has well and truly recovered from the covid years and the British pound is strong.

If you can wend your way through the throng of tourists, UNESCO listed Old Town which has the largest medieval square in Europe (40,000 square metres) is quite splendid. Flanked by 13th century gothic St Mary’s Basilica and Cloth Hall, Main Square designed in 1257 deserves a full day.

St Mary’s Basilica is impressive from the outside and stunning on the inside. Two steeples with an engaging story of sibling rivalry as well as references to Pope John Paul II who hailed from Krakow ensure the basilica is a must see sight. Also, here you can hear the city’s famous bugle call on the hour every hour where the bugler breaks the sound in memory of a bugler shot in the neck when warning of an invasion in 1241.

Cloth Hall/Sukiennice was a vital trading centre 700 years ago. Goods like salt and lead were traded for silks and spices. Trade still continues here today, although the focus is on no fuss souvenirs.

Numerous stalls are set up in the square selling Polish sausages, cheese, breads and dumplings.

Dotted around the square are many cafes. The weather went against us in Krakow with constant rain, wind and cold temps, so we missed seeing the square at its outdoor spring best.

Also in the square, a timely reminder that the conflict between Ukraine and Russia has seen 8 million Ukrainians cross the Polish border. Since the majority of NATO assistance is delivered through Poland, we are definitely assured of interesting days ahead.

In striking distance of the Main Square are streets lined with considerable architectural feats, a 14th century gate and remains of fortification walls. Makes you realise that this world of ours has never been at peace, makes you realise too, that we’re still playing the same ‘land acquisition’ power games.

We walked in the Jewish Quarter, Kazimierz. It was easy wandering: quiet, grounded, unpolished and away from the bustling Old Town. Synagogues, stores, cafes and bars abound. A most interesting area.

Spielberg’s Schindler’s List passage is here. The film is based on the heroic work of German industrialist Oskar Schindler who employed Jews in his enamelled goods factory to keep them from the camps. If you make it to Schindler’s Factory, (we didn’t), there is a tour that gets good reviews.

Krakow is also the jumping off point for the infamous Auschwitz, Birkenau and Plaszow camps … but I couldn’t. Let’s hope this Jewish story keeps being told.

Cosy restaurants and bars where the heater was set to summer and good music played in the background were well and truly on the Krakow agenda.

Leonardo da Vinci’s Lady with an Ermine (500 years old) is in Czartoryski museum and was worth visiting. One of only 4 women painted by da Vinci, the ermine represents the lady’s lover who was engaged to another. A Polish national treasure, this girl is everywhere in Krakow, even in our apartment bathroom.

Had a Krakow good time for 4 days. Now heading to Wroclaw.